How to Care for Monstera Bulbasaur

A variegated Monstera with soft, camo-style marbling in mint, cream and deep green. No two leaves come out the same, and the leaves get bigger and start to split as it climbs.

Care is the same as a regular Monstera: water well, then let it partly dry.

When to Water: Water when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry.

How to Water: Water thoroughly until it drains, then empty the saucer. Never let it sit in water.

In Winter: Growth slows, so it needs water less often.

💡 Pro Tip: Variegated leaves have less green to make energy, so the plant grows a little slower than an all-green Monstera and uses water a little more slowly.

Light is what keeps the marbling strong.

Best Spot: Bright, indirect light, such as near an east window or a few feet back from a south or west window.

Too Little Light: New leaves come in greener and smaller, and growth slows.

Direct Sun: Skip harsh afternoon sun. The pale parts of the leaf burn first.

💡 Pro Tip: If a stem starts putting out all-green leaves, give the plant more light. On a larger, established plant that keeps doing it, you can cut that stem back to just above the last variegated leaf.

Normal home humidity is fine. A little extra speeds up growth.

Humidity: 50% or higher is ideal. Very dry air can crisp the cream sections of the leaves.

Temperature: Comfortable at 65-85°F (18-29°C). Keep it above 55°F and away from cold drafts.

Monsteras want a chunky, airy mix.

Ideal Soil: An aroid mix of bark, perlite and a little peat or coco coir.

Support: Add a moss or coco pole as it grows. Climbing is what triggers bigger leaves and splits.

When to Repot: Every 1-2 years in spring, or when roots circle the pot. Go up one pot size.

Feed with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength about once a month in spring and summer. Skip feeding in fall and winter, when growth slows.

About the Variegation

Each leaf's pattern is different, and variegation varies from plant to plant. Young leaves are solid and heart-shaped. The classic splits appear as the plant matures and climbs.

Brown Patches on the Pale Parts of Leaves

Cause: Sunburn or very dry air. The cream and mint areas are the most delicate.

Solution: Move it out of direct sun and raise the humidity a little. Existing marks won't fade, but new leaves will be clean.

New Leaves Coming in Mostly Green

Cause: Some leaf-to-leaf variation is normal for this plant. Low light can also make the marbling less pronounced.

Solution: Give it bright indirect light and wait for the next few leaves before worrying.

Yellow Leaves

Cause: Usually overwatering or soil that stays wet too long.

Solution: Let the top 1 to 2 inches dry between waterings and use a chunky, well-draining mix.

No Splits in the Leaves

Cause: The plant is still young, or it needs more light and something to climb.

Solution: Give it bright indirect light and a pole. Splits come with maturity.